Building a Custom Subwoofer Enclosure - Requirements & Tips

Building a Subwoofer Box can be done by a beginner, don't be intimidated by the project, most of the tools required are common, and can be found in most households. If you don't have the tools, many of my customers have bought them from a discount store, or found them used, very cheap! (or barrowed)

All of the designs found here are basic designs that sound great. No difficult cutting, or angles to worry about. Each set on design plans can be done with little or no wood working experience. Leave the main cutting of each of the wood boards to the lumber store where you will be buying the wood.

All of these designs are made from 3/4" MDF wood.

A novice woodworker should be able to complete the project in 1-2 days, with dry time.

Here are the basic tools & supplies recommended to complete a subwoofer box:

basic tools needed to complete subwoofer box project

Pencil, Tape Measure, Compass, Jig Saw, Drill, Wood Glue, Caulk Gun, Caulk, Dry Wall Screws, Countersink Drill Bit

*WARNING: MDF Wood Splits very easily, besure to predrill all screw holes*

Save Time & Effort Cutting the Majority of the Project - Have someone else do it! --- Most Helpful Hint Yet:

Getting the sheet of wood cut to the size needed for the project, isn't as hard as many think.

Visit a large local lumber store (one that has a "Panel Saw" on site), bring the "Cut List" from the plans.

*You can have the store cut the wood to the sizes you need. I'd bring a tape measure with you to double check.

They normally charge about .75 a cut, but worth every penny, when hauling a sheet of MDF home.

This will help in the hauling of the wood. Once the wood is cut, it will fit in just about any vehicle.

The most asked question is, "How do I cut out the subwoofer holes?"

Here is a quick run down on a quick, cheap, easy way to get the holes cut out:

Find a template (hopefully one came with your subwoofer, either made from paper or cardboard. Make sure it is correct, subwoofers all have diff. hole sizes, measure on the subwoofer too. (If you don't have one, you will need to measure the subwoofer, and make a template, or use a compass to draw the hole). Use a pencil, and trace the template onto the wood, where you want to place the subwoofer on the board (don't go to close to an edge).

Using a drill bit large enough to fit the jig saw blade into, drill a hole on the inside of the circle, right on the line, but not outside of it. Using the Jig Saw, you need to follow the line around the subwoofer hole. Take your time, it isn't good to go fast, stay on the line the best as you can, without tilting the jig saw.

**Watch for any objects under the wood, many people have cut the table the were working on, when rotating while cutting.

Another question is reguarding the port placement/installation,

The majority of my designs, require the port assembly to be placed flush with the front (or woofer) board. This means, the "legs" of the port meet flush with the bottom edge of the subwoofer board. The port assembly is also installed behind the front board as well.

To cut out the port hole on the front board, place the port on the front board, make sure it is perfectly flush with the bottom edge of the front board (poss. centered on the board as well), and use a pencil to trace the inside of the port onto the front board. Use a Jig Saw to cut on the inside of the lines you traced. Turn the Jig Saw before getting to the corners, and come back after it is cut out to re-trim the corners.

There are many ways to enhance the project, if you are comfortable with wood working:

If you have router, you can round the edges of the port.

Using a rounded router bit, router only the edges of the port, that face inside of the box, before installing inside the box. Also on the outside of the front board around the port opening, after installing the port.

This will allow better airflow in & out of the port opening, and reduce any port noise.

This also can be done with sand paper, but takes alot more time.

When the entire project is completed, many first time builders have the edges & joints off by a bit.

This can be easily repaired with a little belt sanding, to even out the unmatched surfaces.

I include more details with the plans, and all customers are welcome to ask any questions.

Technical support available by email or phone

I request all of the customers to take some pics while building the projects, and send them in.

I post all the customer pics in the Customer Gallery.

Please contact me if you have a vehicle, (not on the list), that you want to get designs for.

Milwaukee, WI &

Las Vegas, NV

Milwaukee Phone: (414) 236-4800

Las Vegas Phone: (702) 628-7948